Hot upstairs rooms and a climbing power bill often start in a thin attic. We seal the gaps, then blow in an even layer.
Blown-in insulation is loose fill, usually fiberglass or cellulose, that our crew at Airlock Lubbock Spray Foam Insulation blows through a hose across your attic floor, so your Lubbock house gets one even layer that slows the heat coming through the ceiling.
Most calls start with an upstairs that runs hot all summer, a room over the garage that never feels like the rest of the house, or a power bill that keeps going up. We're based in Lubbock and work in the cities around it, and in older houses I usually find a few inches of packed-down insulation that's deep in the middle, thin at the edges and drafty around the hatch, pipes and lights.
The price mostly comes down to how big the attic is, how many inches are already up there, how many gaps need sealing and whether old material has to come out first because it got wet or holds droppings. The schedule turns on the same things, plus anything I'd want fixed before we cover it, like a roof leak or old wiring. Your own number comes in the written estimate I send after I've been up there.
I'd rather you understand the job before you agree to anything, so I take whatever time your questions need, and I'm happy to answer the same one twice.
I started out hauling hose and bags through attics around Lubbock as a helper on a small crew, so I know what to check up there, from the old insulation to the vents and wiring. I've run this business since 2021, and I'll tell you plainly if a roof leak or old wiring needs fixing before we add anything.
Before I leave, I go over what I saw, including whether the old layer can stay and which gaps need sealing. Then I send you a written estimate to look over on your own time.
We're licensed and insured, and the people in your attic are our own crew. When they're done, I walk the finished job with you so you can see what went in and where.
We start by checking what's already up there, because fresh insulation over a soaked or dirty layer keeps the old problem right where it was. Then we seal the gaps around can lights, pipes and the hatch, put depth markers on the joists so you can see how much went in, and keep insulation back from the soffit vents and anything that runs hot, like flues and exhaust fans. Can lights get a close look, since only the airtight kind rated for insulation contact can be covered. After that we blow the loose fill in evenly across the whole attic floor.
When what's up there is wet or full of droppings, we start with insulation removal so the new layer goes onto clean framing. If the attic is only part of why your rooms run uneven, I'll talk you through home insulation for the walls, floors and crawl space too. And if your ductwork runs through the attic, spray foam can be worth its higher price because it seals air while it insulates, but for most attics, sealing the gaps and topping up loose fill is the better buy.
Most of the work happens over your head, but it still touches the rest of the house, so here's the order we go in on the day.
We cover the floors and anything near the hatch before the hose comes in, because loose fill and attic dust travel. The blowing machine stays outside on the truck, so most of the noise stays out there too.
The crew closes the gaps and sets the vent clearances first, because they're hard to reach once the attic floor is buried. Skip that step, and the new insulation ends up fighting a draft.
We start at the eaves and work back toward the hatch, so the hard-to-reach edges get their full share instead of ending up thin. The markers on the joists keep the depth honest as we go.
We vacuum the path, close up the hatch and clear our gear out of your house. The markers stay on the joists, so anytime you look up there later you can read how deep the insulation is.
Send the form or call (806) 370-4846, and we'll get back to you within one business day to set a time. The on-site estimate is free and there's no pressure to book, so I'll look at your attic, talk through what I find and then send the written estimate for you to think over. Satisfaction guaranteed on every job.
(806) 370-4846Usually, yes. Blowing in loose fill like fiberglass, cellulose or rock wool usually costs less than laying batts and covers better, because it fills in around the wires, pipes and odd framing that batts leave gaps around. Installed prices still vary from house to house, so your own figure comes from the estimate.
Yes, seal first. Money spent on insulation can go to waste when the gaps in your ceiling, walls and foundation stay open, because air keeps moving right past the new layer. Planning the sealing and the insulation as one job is how you get the most out of both.
Leave it alone and tell us before any work is planned, because vermiculite may contain asbestos. Don't move it or try to clean it up yourself. Mention it when you call, and I'll keep it in mind when I look at the attic so nothing gets stirred up.
A little, in some jobs, so the layer can sit slightly thicker the day we finish than it will later on. That's expected, and one insulation trade group says its product can work well for decades when it's properly installed.
Lubbock requires a permit before code-regulated work on a building or its systems, and the city's list names structural, electrical, plumbing and mechanical changes, not insulation. That list doesn't settle whether your attic job needs one, so when we aren't sure, we call the city's building office and ask before we start, and when a permit is needed, we get it from the city where your house sits and handle the paperwork. If you'd like to ask yourself, the city's Building Inspection Department lists 806-775-2087 and 806-775-3155 for permit questions.
Texas doesn't license building contractors and remodelers, but Lubbock makes them register with that department, and registering takes proof of a $100,000 general liability policy or a $20,000 compliance bond, so it's a fair thing to ask any installer about. Around Lubbock and in Wolfforth, Slaton, Levelland, Plainview, Littlefield and Brownfield, we see a lot of houses whose attics were insulated once and never topped up, and we do the job the same way wherever the house sits.
If you have can lights up there or think you might have vermiculite, mention it when you call (806) 370-4846 or send the form, so I come out ready to look at the right things.
If you're still deciding, send me your attic questions and I'll answer them plainly.
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