Cold, damp-feeling basement walls? We check for water first, then insulate the walls in a way that fits how you use the room.
Basement insulation in Lubbock adds a layer of insulation to your foundation walls, usually from inside the room, so the space stays warmer and tends to stay drier when the summer air turns humid.
Most people call me about a basement that feels cold, smells a little damp, or that they'd like to turn into a real room. I want to know which of those it is before I suggest anything, because a storage space and a family room don't get the same wall, and a wet wall doesn't get insulation until the water's handled.
The price mostly turns on how much wall there is, whether it's bare concrete or already finished, which method fits, and whether a leak or other repair has to come first. The schedule turns on those same things, plus any extra work like a new circuit that may need a city permit. The written estimate I send after seeing your basement lays out those choices and gives you your own figure.
You'll talk with me before anyone starts work, and you'll see me again at the end. Here's who does what along the way.
I've run this business since 2021, and I'm the one who walks your basement, checks the walls for damp spots and leaks, and notes what sits down there, like a gas water heater or furnace. I'll answer every question you have, even the same one twice, before you decide anything.
I go over what I found while we're standing there, then send a written estimate with the method and the work it covers. If a roof leak, a wall leak or old wiring needs fixing first, I'll tell you that rather than cover it up with new insulation.
When you're ready, our own crew does the job, and I walk the finished basement with you so you can see what we did. We're licensed and insured. Call (806) 370-4846 or send us a message to get on my schedule.
Water comes first down there, so I look for damp walls and leaks before we choose a method, and any fix gets planned as step one. Then we decide between foam on the bare walls or a framed wall, depending on how you use the room. Foam right on the wall is the simpler job and seals air as it insulates, so I lean that way for storage and workshop space, but when you want a finished room, a framed wall with drywall is worth the extra work. Either way, our crew closes the gaps around pipes, wires and the top of the foundation wall before the insulation goes in, so it isn't fighting a draft.
Foam on bare basement walls is usually closed-cell foam insulation, a dense foam that also blocks moisture. Open-cell foam insulation is the lighter, softer foam we more often use above ground, and I'll tell you if part of your house is a better fit for it.
Once the water's handled and you've said yes to the estimate, the work follows the same order on most basements.
We move what needs moving away from the walls and cover the floor and anything staying down there, so dust and overspray stay off your things. A water heater or furnace stays clear and protected while we work.
Our crew closes the gaps where air sneaks through, which we call air sealing, before any insulation goes up. It's the groundwork I care most about, because insulation over an open gap doesn't do its job.
We spray the foam or build and fill the framed wall, keeping it even into the corners and along the edges, where it's easy to go thin. If we're spraying foam, I'll tell you before we start how long until you, the kids and the pets can go back down.
We bag the scraps, pick up the floor covering and leave the basement broom-clean. Then I bring you down to look it over.
Send the form or call, and we'll get back to you within one business day. I'll set a time to come out, look at the basement and talk it through, and the on-site estimate is free with no pressure to book. It helps if you can tell me roughly how big the basement is, whether the walls are bare or finished, any signs of water, and whether a gas water heater or furnace sits down there.
(806) 370-4846Insulation in Lubbock usually costs about $1 to $5 per square foot, and that range covers insulation work in general, not basements alone. Where your basement lands depends on the method, whether the walls are bare or finished, and any water fix that has to come first. Your own figure comes in the written estimate after I see the space, and it's satisfaction guaranteed on every job.
In a house that's already built, you're almost always choosing an inside method, since insulating the outside of the foundation works best but usually isn't practical once the dirt is backfilled. Bare walls can take spray foam or rigid foam panels directly, or a framed wall filled with batts, the pre-cut blankets, or blown-in insulation, loose fill blown through a hose, and finished with drywall. If your basement is already finished, holes can be drilled in the walls and insulation blown into the space behind them, and the Energy Department's checklist calls for covering any exposed foam that isn't fire-rated with drywall or another fire-rated layer.
Insulating a damp basement wall can hide the problem, and in some cases the insulation traps water in the wall and causes worse damage. That's why a damp wall or a leak gets fixed as the first step of the project. If that fix is outside what we do, I'll tell you so you can get the right person out first.
If a natural-draft gas water heater or furnace, one that vents by its own draft up a flue, sits in the basement, the Energy Department's checklist for this work calls for a combustion safety test. The test checks for back-drafting, where exhaust spills back into the room instead of venting out, and you can ask for it in the job scope. I'll point out the appliance when I come out so we can talk about it before anything gets sealed.
The city's residential permitting page doesn't settle it, because its list covers remodeling with structural, electrical, plumbing or mechanical changes, like removing a wall or adding a circuit, and doesn't name insulation. If your project adds that kind of work, that part needs a permit. When a job needs one, we get it from the city and take care of the paperwork, and if we aren't sure, we call the city's building office and ask before we start.
Texas doesn't license building contractors or remodelers, so the City of Lubbock has them register with its Building Inspection Department instead, and registering takes proof of liability insurance or a compliance bond. For more specific permit questions, the department lists 806-775-2087 and 806-775-3155.
If you live in the house as your homestead and you or your immediate family do some of the work, the city may issue building, plumbing and mechanical permits to you directly, which can matter when a basement project grows past the insulation. We're based in Lubbock and do this same work in the cities around it, including Wolfforth, Slaton, Levelland, Plainview, Littlefield and Brownfield.
A quick call to (806) 370-4846 or a note through the form about the walls and any water down there means I show up knowing what to look for.
If you've got a question about your basement before you're ready for an estimate, ask it, and I'm glad to answer it twice.
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